The way it was in July 2001...

Highway conditions, far better than I had heard. With the exception of construction sections, gravel breaks and steel deck bridges (all of which can be treacherous, particularly in the rain), the Alaska Highway is an excellent two-lane road.

The Cassiar Highway (Highway 37 from Watson Lake to Kitwanga) is narrow, winding, and only partially paved. The unpaved sections are surprisingly good, but there are long stretches of construction that can be very rough and slow. Traffic is extremely light.

Food, gas and lodging are scarce on the Cassiar, so fill up when you can. However, the scenery is far better than the Alaska Highway. Klondike Highway from Whitehorse to Dawson City is quite good. Taylor Highway/Top Of The World Highway (Tok to Dawson City) is very difficult in bad weather. Yellowhead Highway (Highway 16) from Prince Rupert to Jasper is very good with considerably more traffic.

Traffic. Generally light. Mostly motor homes, fifth wheel rigs and big 30-wheeled semis.

Money. $300 USD got me $450 Canadian. Credit cards are accepted everywhere.

Gas. Readily available. Cost for premium (often as high as 94 octane) ranged from 79¢ per liter in the south to 99¢ per liter in the north.

Lodging. Again, readily available as long as you're not picky. The only no vacancy signs I saw were at Liard Hot Springs. Motels ranged from $30 to over $100, with most $60-70.

Food. Funky little cafe/gas stations dot the landscape. There is always someplace to eat something.

Telephone. Pay phones are everywhere and they all work

Speed limits. Everybody ignores the posted 100 km/h and 110 km/h speed limits. Radar detector never beeped once west of Edmonton. Go as fast as conditions allow.

Weather. Rode through lots of cold rain for days on end. It even snowed a little. Take your rain gear and electric vest.

Bugs. The legendary black mosquitoes can't wait for you to take off your helmet so they can flyup your nose and in your eyes. Black flies are worse but not as common. Locals say it's a particularly bad year for bugs. DEET worked well.

Motorcycle dealerships. Harley dealers in Whitehorse, Anchorage and Fairbanks. Import dealers are more common.

Wildlife. Bear, moose, caribou, big horn sheep and elk strolled across the road.

Favorite spots. Dawson City, Liard Hot Springs, Jasper and Banff national parks, Muncho Lake, Kluane National Park.